Compline Wine Club - Monthly Pickup

June is a time of sudden change. We've got the summer solstice, school's out, and basketball season turns to baseball season. So this month we're shining a light on two areas of Italy undergoing massive changes: Abruzzo and Basilicata.

Abruzzo was long dominated by bulk wine and cooperatives. For the first time in their history the president of the consortium is the president of a privately owned winery rather than a cooperative, and they introduced stricter regulations last year about where the Superiore and Riserva categories of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo can come from.

Meanwhile, Aglianico del Vulture in Basilicata has seen a surge in subzone and single-vineyard bottlings as well as a drastic improvement in winemaking know-how. Change is afoot!

Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, Tiberio 2022

Abruzzo is one of the most picturesque regions in Italy, wedged between the Adriatic coastline to the east and the rugged slopes of the Apennines to the west. Evidence suggests the Etruscans were making wine here as far back as the 6th century BC, although the wines have only really gained acclaim in this century.

Trained chemist (and Compline regular!) Cristiana Tiberio and her brother Riccardo work in Cugnoli, one of the would-be crus of the Trebbiano d'Abruzzo DOC. They and their father rehabilitated a 70ish-year-old vineyard in the late 90s, and they’ve quickly placed themselves in the region's limelight. “Trebbiano” is a bit of a catch-all for numerous related (and unrelated) varieties, but the Tiberios only use the indigenous Abruzzese version. All free-run juice and aged entirely in stainless steel, the 2022 is summer in a bottle: bright, herbal, and scintillating, with just a touch of trademark Italian bitterness to remind you where we are.

Aglianico del Vulture,
Elena Fucci "Titolo" 2020

Aglianico is often referred to as the “Nebbiolo of the south” amongst Italian wine cognoscenti. Its prominent tannins, naturally high acidity, and long hang time recall Nebbiolo, but the best bottles also resemble Barolo and Barbaresco in their beguiling aromas and ability to age. 

Aglianico del Vulture in Basilicata is one of the signature appellations for the grape. It’s dominated by volcanic soils—this bottling actually takes its name from the Titolo lava channel on Monte Vulture, where the vines are grown. Monte Vulture is one of the most unique grape growing environments anywhere in the world. It’s an extinct volcano on Italy's narrow heel, close enough to the sea to receive Mediterranean influence from three directions. Elena Fucci might be its brightest star. She and her husband farm organically, practice rainwater recovery, and employ a photovoltaic system similar to solar panels to conserve energy.

The Titolo vineyard lies at 600 meters on the slopes of Monte Vulture. We've yet to taste an Aglianico del Vulture that sings the praises of place better. The 2020 is gamy, meaty, and wild on the nose, and pretty muscular on the palate.