Alsace Blanc, Mathieu Deiss "Riquewihr" 2022

In Alsace blends represent the lowest rung on the totem pole in modern times. For centuries they've offered important representations of the region and protection against vintage vagaries, but today categories like Gentil and Edelzwicker that use multiple varieties are often the cheapest and least serious wines from most producers. Only 2 of the 51 Grand Crus in Alsace are permitted to blend varieties. Marcel's grandson Jean-Michel and great-grandson Mathieu march to the beat of their own drum, though. In the 80s Jean-Michel took over a vineyard in the Grand Cru Schoenenbourg with mixed plantings, and chose that approach as the way forward. He also believes 51 Grand Cru are too many, so self-classified 7 of his own vineyards as Premier Cru. Predictably, the INAO aren't members of the Deiss fan club. 

We are, though, and this village bottling from Riquewihr in the Haut-Rhin exemplifies why. It's a mixture of co-planted Riesling and Pinot Gris from two vineyards and receives the could-only-be-French designation of sec tendre (tender dry) that allows for a drop of residual sugar. The wine drinks fiercely dry in its youth, and its body and framework of acidity promise a long shelf life. Biodynamically farmed and unabashedly Alsatian, the Deiss wines are standard bearers for what the future of Alsace looks like.