Grüner Veltliner Smaragd, Franz Hirtzberger "Rotes Tor" 2022

Hirtzberger is one of the iconic surnames of the Wachau, and particularly the Spitzer Graben, a distinct valley running northwest from the town of Spitz. Luckily for us we don’t have to track generational name changes, as the last three guys in charge have all been named Franz Hirtzberger. Franz the Second was famous for a rich, botrytized style in his dry wines that for a while defined the Smaragd category. Franz the Third is seeking a bit more balance with the changing climate, doing multiple passes of each vineyard site to achieve a balance of concentration and freshness. The wines are better for it, and despite being ripe and textured the 2022 Rotes Tor Smaragd Grüner contains a refreshing chewy green element. Rotes Tor is interesting as a site because it’s predominantly gneiss rather than the typical loess that Grüner is so often planted on. Despite its weight this is an ultimately high-toned wines, making it easy to see why the Austrians drink white wines with their steak. Also, few Grüners do well with age, but this would be an exception. Buy two and drink one in 10 years.

Must be 21 years old to purchase. ID is required at delivery or in-store pickup.